Cheers
Metal brothers and fellow pinsmen,
Last week I
dipped my toe in the deep water of metal kits and their fits. This is a tricky
issue and companies seem to have distinct policies regarding pining. I mean
let’s face it: Two flat surfaces are not enough to connect two bits with super
glue.
Some of you out there might argue otherwise, and to those I have to say only one thing: You're wrong! If you want to toss your models around on the table top, you will want some kind of fitting. Luckily many kits out there have fittings shaped like balls, slits, sticks and other words, that make teenagers giggle. Sadly though most fittings hardly deserve their names. Pinning is needed in almost all places. This goes as far as to cutting off the original sphere, stick etc. and fully replacing it. Now the policies I mentioned are apparent in the company’s product lines. Your approach to a kit should probably depend on the company responsible for your toy’s making. Let’s tell them apart:
Some of you out there might argue otherwise, and to those I have to say only one thing: You're wrong! If you want to toss your models around on the table top, you will want some kind of fitting. Luckily many kits out there have fittings shaped like balls, slits, sticks and other words, that make teenagers giggle. Sadly though most fittings hardly deserve their names. Pinning is needed in almost all places. This goes as far as to cutting off the original sphere, stick etc. and fully replacing it. Now the policies I mentioned are apparent in the company’s product lines. Your approach to a kit should probably depend on the company responsible for your toy’s making. Let’s tell them apart:
Privateer
Press/ P3: THEY WANT YOU TO PIN! They say so in the rulebook, in the interwebs,
with their pining tool sets and foremost they say it with their minis. Sadly
their metal line is the worst to work with amongst the major companies. Their
metal is super hard, is a sentence bands are proud of, but mini-makers
shouldn't be. Drill bits will die, especially the ones they sell you. Get
professional ones not hobby quality. Drillin' PP's (also old GW's) metal is
some serious business. If your bit brakes in a deep hole you won't be able to
pull it out, thereby destroying your chance to pin in that same spot. Hard
metal has its up sides but pinning isn't one. The "fittings"
themselves are flat surfaces in many places, just pin that.
Overall PP
miniatures are horrible in my opinion, assembly wise. Detail and paintability
are decent, mold-lines are common but not too bad. But the fit is sometimes
awful. I'm going to show you my first Vanguard below. He was the worst metal
kit I ever worked with in 15 years, by far even, 13 pieces 15 pins! WTF PP? But
don't get me wrong I love their products at the same moment, especially my
Vanguard. They have some of the best sculptors out there, cool genuine designs
and a wonderful studio team, also some of the best paints. I basically love their
sculpts and hate their minis. But try to separate them, it's an illusion. Try
try try, but come to my conclusion: begrudgingly buy them anyways. Newer infantry size models aren't that bad after all. (Rant over)
Awful fit on this Vanguard. And like every Warjack he always skips leg day at the gym. Same can be said for Hugh Jackman. Coincidence? I think not.
Like CB's Scarface he also does not fit his base. But this little rascal reminds me of the card soldiers from Allice in Wonderland and I thus love him.
GW: Hardly
any better sadly enough. While detail and fit improved over the years, many
fittings where just flat and called for pins until the end. Mold-lines were thankfully
dodged by these little stick thingies everyone and their sister has under their
socks. Interestingly they always had some crucial parts in large kits that came
together glueable, old Wraithlords and Cybots come to mind. The metal got
softer and softer over the years but remained drillbrakingly hard. Specialist
games’s fit and cast were slightly worse in comparison to store front products,
dunno why. I use past tense because they stopped metal production, of course. I
for one, as a metal hater, like that step. Finecast isn't great but it's just a
substitute until they go all plastic. Or so the rumors go. I'd looooove that.
If Wyrd can do it, GW simply has to do it in order to remain pack leader.
Sometimes double drilling is needed.... cut out the grins gentlemen.
Spartan
Games: They used their "digital resin" method from the start, but
there have been some metal parts in in the kits from time to time, turrets
mostly. As a Kingdom of Britannia player in Dystopian Wars for instance I had
only one turret, which along with some antennas and chimneys was metal. The
metal wasn't too hard, neither to soft. The cast had a good detail. Sadly it
had some of the worst mold lines I have ever seen in metal form. Not just lines
but whole shifts in the mold halves. That shouldn’t happen. But I never felt
obligated to pin. With some exposed rotors maybe but not the turrets. In this
case the past tense is meant to say that I haven’t worked with recent models. I
hear that Dystopian Legions infantry is metal, but I can't say anything about
it's properties. The infantry sculpts look rather two-dimensional to me, guess
they are all one or two pieces. Just a guess though. Never saw any two metal
pieces with glue points. Sorry for my lack of insight here but for the DW range
I'd say they don't need you to pin.
Just
throwing in a suggestion: best pin everything that is not meant to be together,
no matter the material. (excluding
marriage material)
Odd choice
this time Taban: A rather small company, a small company that wants you to pin.
I only assembled a few guys but I couldn't find any attempt on Tabans side to
even make a fitting. They make a decently detailed cast though, with hardly any
mold-lines. That is cool. Their metal itself sadly isn't. It is too damn soft.
You can seriously scratch it with a fingernail. Now I only have a box and a
blister, so it might only be me. Yet I heard similar complaints. But still give
Eden a try. Delicate models in or out, 5 Models per side and a 2' by 2' table
is quite the skirmisher all right.
Another
quick tip: Cut rectangular fittings like this for more poseability.
And now
Corvus Belli: Thank God for this company. The only one who really gets it
right, the best reason to help Spain overcome their economical crisis. I have
always been a metal hater, but they brought the metal back into my heart. But
let's not get overenthusiastic here. First off: Their old Infinity range sucked
(sculpt wise). Luckily they replaced almost all of it, with horrible exeptions. As I said last week their newbies are beautiful. So let’s just talk
metal. When I decided to go Infinity I thought I just have to put up with an
all metal company. I had the lowest expectations imaginable. And then their
kits just blew my mind. They are not perfect, as is no material to work with.
They have flaws. Mold-lines are plentiful, but shifting is not. And thanks to
the rather soft (but not too soft) metal, you can "shave" them
easily. Many parts mean the sculpt can be very dynamic, and boy are they. But
moreover many parts mean that mold-lines are always accessible, huge win here.
Poseability is sacrificed to genius fittings (see below). In a true skirmisher
that’s not hurtin. A month ago I would've said: Always pin everything. I even
planed that post. Now I just say: Unless you got a good fitting. You should still
pin the touchshy parts (where you grab the model) and some other peculiar
places. But you don’t have to pin it all. For my Scarface I used 14 pins but he
is a 19 piece model. I was impressed that the amzing fit of the infantry sized
models translates into TAG size. Usually the rule of Thumb is (with metal
only): The bigger the kit, the lousier the fit. That goes all the way back to
the old GW metal Thunderhawk (the 90ies were some strange times). But CB broke
the rule. There are still other flaws besides mold lines of cause: Fit isn't
100% (but close), antennas are always a problem, a good glue spot doesn't help
a part from braking. They are not for beginners, they are way more delicate
than GW's and PP's stuff and some sprue connectors are placed tricky. But at
the end of the day they are the best metal kits I ever worked with.
Above: CB's Scarface
Awesome fittings...
...pin them anyways
Somtimes you have to get creative with pin placement. The pin simply needs some space in there to work.....NO GRINS!
I am one of
those people who would love an Industry where every model was Wyrd/GW grade
plastic. I also know that that is just not realistic at this moment. But I'm
myself am surprised, that If CB were to be the last company to do metal, I'd
stick with them. And metal has some propertys hard to contest, bendable being
the best of them. Since the dawn of Finecast I tried to buy old GW metal models
for my armies, who's sculpts wouldn’t work in Finecast. Whips and tentacles
like on the Tyranid Venomthrope or Eldar rangers with their rifles come to
mind. I'd suggest you do likewise, if you need something that wasn't designed
with Finecast in mind. That stuff isn't too bad, but like any other it can't do
it all. The golden age of plastic has yet to come. Some might even say
METAL WILL
NEVER DIE!!! ... I only know that CB's will die last.
That warmachine model looks hilariously bad next to the infinity piece. The game looks really bad as well, compared to infinity.
ReplyDeletewhat pin vise and bits do you use. I have one and i couldn't make a scratch in the infinity models. I would love to hear back
ReplyDeleteI am using these drill bits: http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/812154/RONA-Mini-Spiralbohrer-Satz-6tlg
DeleteI use them with a normal hand drill.
Priveteer Press has pinning set, and I had similar experieces, to yours, with them. Get professionel grade drills. Hobby and cheap hardware store ones are not up for the task.
That being said, Infintiys metal is quite soft, I often overdrill because It's so easy to get through. So you must have some horribly bad drills.
I don't know why the first line came out so weird, wasn't on purpose.
Delete